Sunday, June 25, 2023

Chithirai festival in Thiruvaiyaaru

 Thiruvaiyaaru is a small town next to Tanjore and it is an hour drive from Trichy. I don't prefer the Trichy Tanjore Highway due to traffic and usually take Kallanai route by that way its all green pastures on both the sides. Thirivaiyaaru is famous for music festival dedicated to saint Thyagaraja who is considered one of the greatest saint composer of carnatic music. There is a very famous Shivan temple called Aiyarappar temple which is categorized as paadal petra sthalam. Thiruvaiyaaru has five rivers around the city namely Arisilaaru, Vennaaru, Vettaaru, Kudamuruttiyaaru and Kauvery aaru. Temple is called as Dakshina Kailasam (southern abobe of Lord shiva) built on a very vast area. If you plan to visit this temple then I bet your Apple watch will break all your records in terms of number of steps. It is to be noted that Saivite saint Appar worshipped here and got the darshan of Mount Kailash. One lovely thing about this temple which I came to know was every day is considered to be auspicious and to emphasize this temple conducts wedding festival for mother is conducted on Ashtami nights. There is a common belief that Ashtami being eighth day of new moon or full moon is not an auspicious day. But with the graciousness of mother Dharma Samvardhini what we call inauspicious becomes auspicious. Sri rangam and Thiruvaiyaaru both considered holy places and people carry out the rituals for their ancestors on these holy places based on their preference. 

 When time permits I have this habit of visiting old temples nearby and on one such occasion came to know about the Saptha stana temples (seven temples) in and around Thiruvaiyaaru. These are seven temples which are geographically closer to each other and on my first visit I had darshan of Puvananathar temple at  Thirupanturuthi and on second visit I had darshan of Kandeeswarar temple at Thirukandiyur and Odhanavaneswarar temple at Thiruchotruturai. Now since my boys were off to my inlaws place for summer vacation I planned to cover two or three temple on my third visit. I had no clue that May 7, 2023 happened to be the chithirai festival in these seven temples. I directly went to Apathsahayar temple in Thirupazhanam and in that temple met a shivan devotee. She requested for a ride knowing my plans and I said its my blessing to give her a ride. We both headed towards Thiruvedhikudi to have darshan of Vedapuriswarar and since these are small temples in remote locations priest locked the temple and went along with pallaku. Nevertheless I went inside the temple had my darshan and went straight to Neyyadiappar temple in Tillaostanam. Over there I had darshan and the temple had a festive look. I slowly came to know the chithirai festival in great detail. Just knowing names of the temples is no good and knowing the religious significance makes you to enjoy much more so here I go ...

There is a temple in Ariyalur district called Vaidyanathaswami temple in Thirumazhapadi where Nandhikeswarar marriage happens every year [Panguni month, Punar pusam nakshathiram]. It is a faith that one who sees nandhi marriage, they will enter wedlock soon. Lord Nandeeswara bridegroom of Aiyarappar temple marries goddess swayambikai of Thirumazhapadi and Lord Aiyarappar along with his consort go to Thirumazhapadi on a glass planquin to conduct the marriage and on the same night Lord Aiyarappar along with the newly wed couples cross Kollidam and reach Thiruvaiyaaru. It is a saying that newly wed couples settle for 30 days and then start visiting places. But we live in a different planet altogether where newly wed couples go for Honeymoon, finish off the reception and travel to a different country in seven days. After 30 days the new ponnu-maapillai has to be shown to public hence Lord Aiyarappar along with his consort start from aiyarappar temple and visit other six connected temples along withthe newly weds. Lord and goddess all go on palaaku (palanquin) from one place to another and on each temple they are accompanied by respective planquins and will join the Aiyarappar plananquin. During Nandhi marriage each temple specializes in one area as follows:

Thirupazhanam: Fruits are brought from this temple for Nandhi marriage.

Thiruchotruthurai: Food/rice are brought from this temple for Nandhi marriage.

Thiruvedhikudi: Vedic priests are brought from this temple for Nandhi marriage.

Thirukandiyur: Ornaments are brought from this temple for Nandhi marriage.

Thirupoonthuruthi: Flowers are brought from this temple for Nandhi marriage.

Thiruneistanam: Ghee is brought from this temple for Nandhi marriage.

Thiruvaiyaaru: Celebration in Aiyarappar temple 

So from two palakku to start with from Aiyarappar temple they keep adding one palakku after visiting each temple. Lord aiyarappar is happy to show newly weds to all and finally in Thiruneistanam (thats my third stop in the trip) you will get to see all eight (7+1 palakku). I have to say this has been a truly rewarding experience to catch hold of the festive atmosphere. Trumpets all over, fireworks, men carrying children on their shoulders and shiva devotees on full swing. The breakfast I brought became my lunch and without worrying about my HBA1C levels had enough panakkams. The shivan devotee whom I gave ride asked me where were my kids and I said they have gone to inlaws place; She said oh ..you have so big boys that they have gone to their inlaws place and had to correct her saying they have gone to my inlaws place. For some reason this joke seems to be Minu's favorite till date as she bursts out laughing recollecting this one often. Slowly all palanquins started gathering inside the temple premise and around 3 pm was hungry and found a thatha selling cucumber. I thought that was the best bet for both health and hygiene and had one cut into four halves sprinkled with chilly powder and salt. I have to say it tasted delicious ....I was soon inside the temple where all eight palakku gathered and priest started aarthi for one palakku after another. To witness lords from seven different temples on a palakku along with goddess and also along with nandhi along with his consort all under one roof was overwhelming and overall atmosphere was so very good. 

None of us can detach ourselves from regular life but at times we must visit festivities like these to know and understand true meaning of life. While we may be crumbling for materialistic pleasures looking into the street vendors, seeing how people volunteer for a public cause, seeing how people help each other during padhayathras, kids seeing how parents sacrifice their day during thiruvizha times, how relatives convene during thiruvizha times and last but not the least seeing how villagers from seven villages mingle and coordinate the function was all too joyful. Ancestors truly had a purpose for Thiruvizhas and my experience during Saptha sthana thiruvizha in Thiruvaiyaaru was a very enriching experience. Now after witnessing Saptha sthana thiruvizha in Thiruvaiyaaru I love to experience Kallalagar getting down in vaiagai river, Thiruvarur Ther festival, Maha masi magam in Kumbakonam, Thiruvannamalai periya karthigai etc., 

Next blog: Chettinadu cooks - An overview !! 

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